when in rome - daily diary

Friday, February 10, 2006

Jesse on the Tempietto & Palazzo Spada

Today was a bit different and a nice treat as we had a guest lecture by Jesse Locker, a friend of Lisa’s, and a brilliant art history scholar. His specialty is Spanish patronage and political influence in Rome. We met at the Tempietto, a small but important church built by Bramante. It is a masterpiece of high Renaissance architecture commissioned by Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain. With its small scale it looks as if it is delicately carved like a sculpture. The form is perfectly proportioned with classical columns surmounted by a dome. More importantly though, the Tempietto is built upon the site of Peter’s crucifixion. There is a whole in the foundation marking the spot of the cross. It is unbelievable to see such a site.
Next we went to the Palazzo Spada, a hidden gem of a museum. This is the first type of painting gallery we have seen, with smaller paintings covering all of the wall space. It gives the viewer a wholly different experience, as the eye actively darts from one to the other--very Baroque. These paintings were of much different subject matter than we have been accustomed to in the Renaissance period. The scenes deviate from the forever Heavenly. There are now battle scenes, still lifes, landscapes, fruits, and mythology. My favorite part of the museum was the courtyard with the columned optical illusion. The classical statue in the back is meant to look life-sized, just extremely far away, yet when someone stands next to it they are as tall as the arch.
We also heard the second half of Whitney’s presentation on Caravaggio at San Luigi dei Francesi, a French basilica. Inside, Caravaggio’s works are stunning, as crowds swarmed to them. Her presentation was very professional and thorough.

(pictures to come...if they ever upload properly...!)

-Danny

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